The longer you let this go on, the worse it will get. This total includes both parts and labor costs together. But be prepared to pay some extra fees and taxes on top of the total estimated price. Back when auto shop class was a thing in high schools, replacing a distributor cap was one of the first things you were taught. But since modern ignition systems are now distributor-less, the task has become a lost art.
Nonetheless, a good service manual will walk you through the process and you may even be able to find a YouTube video for the specific procedure to your vehicle. I have 71 VW and had starting problem engine shaking until I read this article and checked the distributor cap and rotor sure enough needed replacement changed new ht leads, cap, rotor the car starts first pop now thanks.
Table of Contents. Looking for Replacement Parts? Glad to hear we helped you out! Thanks for the info Reply. In fact, as the image above indicates, there are several problems that can cause the distributor cap to fail including:.
These two parts go hand in hand for replacement and maintenance, similar in many ways to oil and an oil filter. Since the distributor rotor and cap can go bad over time because they are located in a harsh environment, it is important to know the symptoms this part will give off before it completely fails.
Some of the common symptoms of a damaged or broken distributor cap or rotor may include the following:. The Check Engine Light is illuminated: The distributor cap and rotor are vital parts of the ignition system on most older vehicles on the road today. However, on most vehicles made after , a Check Engine Light was connected to major components including the distributor and illuminates when a problem exists.
In most cases, the Check Engine Light will come on when the distributor cap is cracked and has condensation inside, or if the electrical signal coming from the distributor is inconsistent. The vehicle does not start: If the distributor cap or rotor are broken, voltage will be unable to flow to the spark plugs, which means the engine will not fire. It's very common for both the rotor and distributor cap to fail at the same time; especially if the rotor fails first. The engine idles rough: There are small electrodes on the bottom of the distributor cap called terminals.
When these terminals become covered in carbon buildup or become burnt because of over exposure to voltage, the engine can idle and run very rough. Essentially, what's happening is that the engine is skipping a cylinder from the firing order in this instance. For purposes of this HOW TO article, we'll focus on the best recommended methods for replacing the distributor cap and rotor. However, it's a good idea to purchase and review your service manual for exact steps if they are different for your vehicle.
According to most service manuals, replacing the distributor cap and rotor together are recommended on most domestic and imports every 50, miles at a minimum. During routine tune-ups, which happen every 25, miles, the distributor cap and rotor are often inspected for premature signs of wear and tear and will be replaced if they are damaged.
Although the distributor caps and rotors are designed differently based on the vehicle manufacturer, engine size and other factors, the process and steps for replacing them on most engines is rather similar. In many cases, the reason why the distributor cap and rotor fail at the same time is that they work together to accomplish the same task; which is distributing voltage from the ignition coil to the spark plug.
When the rotor begins to wear out, the bottom terminals on the distributor cap does the same. If the distributor cap becomes cracked, condensation can enter the inside of the cap, which will literally drown out the electrical signal. Replacing the distributor cap and rotor at the same time should be completed every 50, miles, regardless of whether or not they are damaged. If your vehicle does not put on a lot of miles every year, it's also a good idea to replace them every three years.
This task is very simple to perform, as most vehicles with this set up have distributor caps that are very easy to access. Most service manuals suggest that this task should take about one hour to complete. When you decide to remove the distributor cap and rotor, there are a few things you need to accomplish before you actually start the job.
The first step is to purchase a replacement distributor cap and rotor kit. Most OEM parts manufacturers sell these two items as a kit, to ensure they are both replaced at the same time. There are also several aftermarket part suppliers that also make kits for specific vehicles. In some cases, the kits will come with replacement hardware, gaskets and sometimes, new spark plug wires. If your kits come with these items, it's a good idea to use them all; especially the new bolts for securing the distributor cap and rotor.
Some rotors fit freely on the distributor shaft; while others are secured with a screw. If your vehicle has a rotor secured with a screw; always use the new screw. According to most service manuals, the job of removing the distributor cap and rotor itself is only about one hour to complete.
The most time consuming part of this job will be removing ancillary components that restrict access to the distributor. It's also vital to take time to mark the location of the distributor, the distributor cap, spark plug wires and the rotor on the bottom of the distributor before it's removed; and during the removal process. Failure to properly mark the wires and reinstall the new distributor cap exactly as the used one was removed can result in ignition problems.
To complete this job, you won't have to raise the vehicle on a hydraulic lift or on jack stands. The distributor is typically located on the top of the engine or on the side of the engine. In most cases, the only part you'll have to remove to gain access to it is the engine cover or the air filter housing. In general, the materials you'll need to remove and replace the distributor and the O-ring; after removing ancillary components will include the following:. After collecting all these materials and reviewing the instructions set forth in your service manual, you should be ready to complete this job.
As with any service, replacing the distributor cap and rotor will begin with making sure you have clear access to all the tools and supplies you need to complete this task. You don't have to jack the vehicle up or raise the vehicle on a hydraulic lift to complete this job. Please refer to your service manual for detailed instructions as the steps listed below are general steps.
Step 1: Remove battery cables: Remove the positive and negative battery cable and place them away from the battery terminals before proceeding. Step 2: Remove engine cover and air filter housing: In many instances you'll have to remove the engine cover and air filter housing in order to have free access to remove the distributor cap and rotor.
No tools required. The new rotor presses on the same way, and the part is cheap. The rotor spins a metal arm inside the cap that can become pitted and worn. Once you acquire the parts to replace your spark plug wires and distributor cap, take a close look at the existing spark plugs in the vehicle.
Each spark plug wire plugs into the distributor cap at a specific location on the cap. The only critical rule to follow is that this order be maintained.
The engine fires in a specific succession, which the spark plug wires and distributor cap are set up to support. Most are numbered for clarity. The safest way to change these parts is to unscrew and remove the distributor cap without unplugging any spark plug wires.
Note the way the cap is oriented. There will be one extra wire that runs to the ignition coil. The wedge-shaped, "weathervane" rotor will now be visible, protruding up from the distributor itself.
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